You may be so inclined to take a shortcut, or try to save money by using some of the old parts, but we highly advise you use the new hardware that comes with the kit. It will only bite you in the rear down the road. Jason tightened up the new castle nut and topped it off with the new cotter pin.
With the new discs and calipers bolted up, Jason moved on to bleed the new master cylinder. We connected the supplied master cylinder bleeder kit to the brake line attachment, then filled the master with air-free fluid. You’ll need to pump it about 25 or so times, or until there are no visual air bubbles in the line.
It was then time to move forward and bolt up the booster. Again, this is an exact replacement system, so everything lines up just how you would expect.
The existing brake lines then bolted right back up to the proportion valve. All that was left to do was fill up the master cylinder with brake fluid and bleed the brakes. Our replacement system works just like new and the whole deal only set us back about $380.00. If you want to go for the kit that includes new spindles, you’re looking at about $549.00.
The new discs look sweet, and the calipers just bolted right in place with no issues whatsoever.
With the new master bled, we then bolted up the original proportion valve. The kit doesn’t come with one, so be sure to save your original. They rarely go bad, but if you happen to need a new one, CPP has them in stock for about $75.00
Next, Jason hooked up the master cylinder to the booster, then the brake pedal to the brake rod.