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S.Drive Billet Aluminum Serpentine Systems - Serpentine DreamsEddie Motorsports’ new S.Drive pulley system From the January, 2012 issue of Camaro Performers By Steven Rupp Photography by The Author
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We still remember the old days when finding a pulley system for your Camaro involved digging around in boneyards for just the right combination. We would then clean up the scavenged parts, and more than likely perform some cutting and welding to get everything the way we wanted. It was a necessary process, but today the aftermarket offers us more attractive (literally) options. Another issue with using repurposed OEM pulleys was that they sometimes didn’t locate the accessories in the right spots. After all, they were designed for a specific car and didn’t need to be compact; they needed to fit. Today, the aftermarket makes it easier to transplant engines into our cars by offering systems that are compact enough to fit anywhere and look killer. They also allow for us ditch the V-belts and run six-rib serpentine belts that are capable of handling power levels that would shred or glaze a V-belt. First up was installing the... First up was installing the four 3⁄8-inch studs into the block. We dabbed a little RTV sealant on them and then screwed them in leaving about 2 inches sticking out of the block. Eddie Motorsports recently jumped into the pulley arena with their S.Drive billet aluminum serpentine systems. CNC-machined right here in the USA from 6061-T6 aluminum, they certainly looked great in pictures, but we wanted to get a hold of one to see how “tab A” fit into “slot B.” So with parts in hand, we headed over to Driverz Inc. to bolt a kit to a big-block they had sitting around the shop.  If you’re installing this...  If you’re installing this system on an older engine, it’s good idea to clean out the tapped holes in the block with a chaser or tap.  We then installed the four...  We then installed the four O-rings onto the black anodized brackets.  The alternator and compressor...  The alternator and compressor brackets were then slid over the studs.  Using two 7⁄16-inch cap screws,...  Using two 7⁄16-inch cap screws, we installed the power steering brackets. Per the instructions, we made sure to dab a little antiseize on all the threads. At this point we only finger-tightened the bolts.  Next, we slid on the supplied...  Next, we slid on the supplied aluminum Edelbrock water pump.  After putting some antiseize...  After putting some antiseize on the ends of the studs, we installed the four 3⁄4-inch spacers. Once in place, we tightened them down along with the two cap screws on the power steering bracket.  Next, we installed the 6061...  Next, we installed the 6061 T-6 billet main bracket using four M8 cap screws. Again, we made sure to use some antiseize.  Now that the brackets were...  Now that the brackets were in place, we could start bolting on the accessories. First up was the Maval power steering pump. This was secured using two 5⁄16-inch bolts with lock washers. The pulley came pre-installed on the pump, which was a real time saver. Eddie Motorsports also offers the pump in a remote reservoir configuration.  Next to go on was the Sanden...  Next to go on was the Sanden A/C compressor. Two M8 cap screws attach it to the main bracket while a proprietary shouldered bolt attaches the bracket sandwiched behind the water pump. We didn’t fully tighten them. At this point, do we need to mention antiseize?  The compressor cover was next...  The compressor cover was next to go in place. We used a little blue thread locker on the three 1⁄4-inch cap screws. We bet you thought it was going to be antiseize.  Moving to the Powermaster...  Moving to the Powermaster 105 amp alternator. We installed it with one M8 and one M10 cap screw. Once in, we went back and tightened all the A/C compressor bolts.  After dabbing the four 5⁄16-inch...  After dabbing the four 5⁄16-inch bolts with some red thread locker, we installed the water pump pulley.  Our only problem popped up...  Our only problem popped up when we went to install the crank pulley. Most big-block balancers use a coarse thread, but our TCI Rattler uses fine thread. Eddie Motorsports will provide both types in future kits. We picked up some 3⁄8-inch bolts and wrenched them in with the supplied Belleville washers and some red thread locker.  The Gates tensioner went on...  The Gates tensioner went on the main bracket using a 3⁄8-inch cap screw, this time with blue thread locker.  Ignoring the instructions,...  Ignoring the instructions, we then installed the tensioner cover. At this point we realized that it can’t go on until the belt is installed, so we pulled it back off and installed the serpentine belt.  Lastly, we installed the compressor...  Lastly, we installed the compressor manifold to the A/C pump using the two M8 cap screws and antiseize. If you’re not going to be hooking up the system soon, it’s best to wait on this and leave the pump sealed up. Also, never connect power to the pump without the hoses hooked up and system charged. Doing so will just end in tears.  And just like that, our Eddie...  And just like that, our Eddie Motorsports pulley system was installed on our big-block engine. Using a straight edge, we checked everything over, and the pulley alignment was excellent.  If you want to forego air...  If you want to forego air conditioning and roll like our ancestors, Eddie Motorsports has you covered. Aside from saving money, the install will be a bit simpler. Obviously the A/C compressor will be gone, and in its place will be an idler pulley. The non-A/C main bracket is on the top.  In addition to the main bracket,...  In addition to the main bracket, the only other change is to the bracket that is sandwiched between the H2O pump and the block on the passenger side.  And here’s what the system...  And here’s what the system looks like sans air conditioning. Pricing is listed for A/C versions at $2,095 for machined finish, $2,195 for polished, and $2,275 for black. For non-A/C, the price drops to $1,920 for machined finish, $2,020 for polished, and $2,100 for black. They also offer kits without power steering.
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