Throughout the bodywork stages,...
Throughout the bodywork stages, Pete used a number of different grades of sandpaper depending on his needs at the time. He exclusively uses 3M products, and here you can see a sample of the 3M Imperial sandpapers ranging in grit from 220 through 500, which can be used in either a wet or dry configuration.
As with any labor-intensive build-up, there is a time when the torches are put away, and all of the cutting and grinding comes to an end. You step back to catch your collective breath, but you're still pretty far away from easy street. In fact, there's a whole mountain left to climb 'til you're ready for the final dance with that trip into the spray booth. When Peter Newell and his team at Competition Specialties in Walpole, Massachusetts, wrapped up on all of the metalwork and fine-tuning of Tony Rose's Project Karma Camaro, it was time to focus on dialing in the bodywork. This meant lots of time being put into finessing panels, body lines, and block-sanding the body to perfection.
Any way you cut it, sanding...
Any way you cut it, sanding is a tough task that will make or break the final results once you leave the spray booth. Time spent blocking, is time well spent! To properly support your needs, there are a number of styles and types of sanding blocks available: from rigid long and short blocks, to a multitude of semi-rigid and soft flexible ones.
So, in this article we're going to focus on some of the final details needed in preparing the body for its coating of liquid icing. Once all of the major bodywork has been completed, and with the car in its last prime coat, the concluding steps become even more crucial in preparing the surface.
Let's follow along with Peter as he wraps up the final details that separate a good paintjob from a great paintjob.
Pete's Prep Tip
Be sure to pre-fit all trim, lights, and emblems to your body panels to ensure proper fit and alignment. Just because a part is new, there's no guarantee it will fit exact to your specific application.
•Always place your sandpaper in water prior to use in wet sanding as this will make the paper more pliable and easier to use.
•Always remember to take your time when working with your final prime coating on the body. If you over-sand the areas, you'll be shooting that final coat one more time!
Team member Brian Jordan (left)...
Team member Brian Jordan (left) joined shop owner Peter Newell in masking the car to protect it from the sanding dust and wet-sanding sludge which would result from the final prep stage.
We defy any crud to creep...
We defy any crud to creep into the inner sanctum of the car at this point. Careful attention to masking everything will keep all excess debris from settling in the car or on its new wheels and tires.
Starting from the rear and...
Starting from the rear and moving forward, Peter laid down a coating of Rubber Seal's Medallion Dry Guide Coat to aid in highlighting the high or low spots, sand scratches, or orange peel in the final prime finish. Working with this product is a snap as it is a fast-drying aerosol lacquer.
Once the Guide Coat was dry,...
Once the Guide Coat was dry, Peter selected a semi-hard flexible sanding block due to the contour of the fender, wrapped it with 320-grit paper and began to carefully wet-sand the panel. From there he graduated the paper to 500-grit wet.
Using the edge of a soft sanding...
Using the edge of a soft sanding block is the perfect tool for removing wet sanding sludge from a panel. Acting like a small squeegee, it safely removes the sludge sediment without marring the surface.
Once the panel has been wiped...
Once the panel has been wiped clean and dried, it can then be inspected for any remaining attention it may need.
The Guide Coat shows some...
The Guide Coat shows some orange peel that will need to be tended to. It can easily be removed by some additional wet sanding; starting with 320-grit, followed by 500-grit.
Once the wet sanding to the...
Once the wet sanding to the front of the panel was completed, Peter again used the edge of his flexible soft sanding block to clear the surface of any remaining sanding sediment.
Peter uses 1/2-inch masking...
Peter uses 1/2-inch masking tape to run a line down the side of the car at the exact center point of the panels. Doing this sets a sanding line where he will block the body to the edge and not past the marked point. This is how he protects the edge from being rounded-over or flattened by being over sanded.