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1968 Chevrolet Camaro Shocks - Shock Therapy
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The upside to twin-tube shocks is that they are inexpensive to manufacture and they provide a comfortable, stable, all-around ride. But they are not the best choice for performance—not by a long shot. As you would guess, mono-tube shocks employ a single tube or cylinder. Even so, they typically have double the piston power compared to a twin-tube shock. At the end of the piston rod is the piston containing the valves. On compression, this piston pushes against a section of oil that is forced toward a second dividing piston. This second, or “floating,” piston is caught between this viscose oil and a pocket of high-pressure gas between 200 and 350 psi. Since the oil is separated from the gas, the chance of foaming is eliminated. This dual-piston single-tube design is the shock of choice when corner-carving performance is desired. In addition to mono-tube shocks being able to shed heat better than their twin-tube cousins, they can also be mounted inverted when required. So which type is the right type for your ride? If you’re just building a cruiser and on a tight budget, then a set of twin-tubes will serve you fine. But, if you want to hit the twisties and squeeze out every bit of performance from your Camaro then mono-tube is the way to go. If you’re still skeptical, then take a stroll though the pits at any NASCAR, CART, IMSA, or even Formula 1 race and you’ll find that the only cars running twin-tubes are the spectator’s cars in the parking lot.  If a shock bottoms out hard...  If a shock bottoms out hard enough it can cause some serious damage to the cylinder. Steve had these bumpstops made to solve this problem. They come in a standard length, then Steve cut them down depending on the application.  The upper shock mount was...  The upper shock mount was installed on the shaft and secured with some red Loctite and a jam nut. Don’t skip the Loctite since having the shock unscrew from the mount could ruin an otherwise perfect day.  Next it was time to assemble...  Next it was time to assemble the coilovers. To help the spring seats spin easily on the shock bodies we dabbed on a bit of Anti-Seize. Sure, it’s a bit messy, but sometimes function should override the desire to be neat and tidy. Steve Duck, of Race Car Dynamics, spends much of his time either advising customers on what shocks will work best under their car, or diagnosing pre-existing problems. As he told us, “Oftentimes, when choosing a shock, buyers are caught up in the hype of marketing. Just because a shock is billet-aluminum and has a knob on it doesn’t mean it will work on your vehicle, or that it is even a quality shock. When I’m asked how to set up a car, the first thing I always tell people is to set it up for how it’s going to be used. If the car is going to the track once or twice a year, they don’t need a race car. What they need to concentrate on is making it enjoyable the other 363 days. There is a distinct difference between a street car and race car. A street car with the correct shocks (like the Bilsteins offered by RCD), sway bars, and springs can still be a blast at the track without killing its street manners. On the other hand, a dedicated track or autocross car must be tuned for more control by using higher spring rates and shock valving that might have less low-speed bypass to react quicker in turns. Another big issue is guys who want to have their cars as low as possible. The negative of this is they end up taking away too much suspension travel, which kills the ride and the handling. Hey, at least they still have the killer stance!” Dialing For Dampening
Another area of choice is in adjustability. Most higher-end shock brands offer both single- and double-adjustable shocks in addition to their standard-valved shocks. In a single-adjustable shock there’s one knob that changes shock-behavior. It’s a bit unfair to refer to some of these shocks as single adjustable since clicking the knob changes both the compression and rebound at the same time, while others just change one of these parameters.
As you may have guessed, a double adjustable has two knobs: one changes the compression while the other controls the rebound. This gives the ultimate in tuning ability. Nevertheless, this is only a good thing if you set them correctly. So, if you spend the extra coin, be sure to get some tuning advice from the shock’s manufacturer or you will be complaining about your ride when the fault is yours alone.  The lower heim joints are...  The lower heim joints are quite flexible in how they can be mounted to the suspension. Through the use of various bearing spacers from RCD they can bolt onto just about any ride. Here we test-fitted the cross mount needed so the shocks can later be bolted to our lower C5 Vette control arms.  Just like shocks, springs...  Just like shocks, springs are another area where it’s easy to choose the wrong parts. In our case, we were trying to work with our current swaybar situation, or in the rear, our lack of swaybar. Steve at RCD decided on 555-pound, 10-inch springs up front and 300-pound, 10-inch springs in the rear. Steve also points out, “Another common problem I see with street cars is too much spring rate. This can overpower the shock valving, and in turn, cause a pogo-type effect. Especially when going hard into a corner, the car can skip if the suspension is disrupted by a bump. And if the skip is bad enough, you could find yourself looking at oncoming traffic very quickly.”  Here are the assembled front...  Here are the assembled front coilovers. Even though they are not externally adjustable, Bilstein custom-valved them just for our ’68. According to Steve, “With the Bilstein deflective-disc valving, the shock already has built-in adjustability. As suspension speeds increase, more plates come into play slowing the flow of oil past the piston. Another key factor is that the oil flows through different passages in the piston for rebound and compression. This allows for two distinctly different valving stacks to be used. Typically, a shock will have less valving on compression to allow the suspension to collapse and absorb the bump, but now you have a massive amount of energy built up in the spring that must be controlled, so the rebound valving is much higher to slow it down.”
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