06 After doing more math, the wizards at Currie put the spindle on the jig and off-center milled it. This way when the spindle slides into the axle tube the hole will be dead center through the third member and into the other spindle.
07 Four 5⁄8-inch holes were then drilled through both ends of the rear housing. This will facilitate rosette welds to secure the new spindles.
08 With the new spindle slid in place and centered, a small tack weld was added to keep it in place prior to final welding. Currie also made sure the spindles were clocked properly for the Wilwood disc brake backing plates.
09 It’s obvious by these beautiful welds that Currie does this all the time. The axle tube was fully welded to the spindle around the entire circumference and the four holes were filled with welding rosettes.
10 With the spindle in place, we could then install the brake backing plates, which also house the parking brake parts. Before screwing in the fasteners, we hit them all with some red Loctite.
11 To carry the weight of the car, Strange went with some stout Timken bearings. These were the biggest ones they could use that would still fit inside the drive hub. In the back you can see the red seal, then two bearings with a bearing preload spacer between them. We mocked this up so you could see how the arrangement works. They are actually installed inside the drive hub after being packed in grease. The preload tapered bearing setup eliminates any play in the bearings, which further reduces any chance of piston knockback.
12 Entering the home stretch, we then secured the drive hubs to the specialized Wilwood rotor hats. The Strange kit will ship with standard 11-inch rotors, but buyers can also upgrade to the 14-inch GT slotted Wilwood rotors we’re running.
13 We then packed the bearings in Swepco 101 moly grease and installed them into the drive hub, tapping in the Timken seal last.
14 The rotor/drive-hub assembly was then slid on the spindle and secured using the lock collar and spindle nut. Make note that the spindle nut goes on with the chamfered side facing the wheel, as shown. The spindle nuts were torqued to 75-85 ft-lbs using the supplied tool.
15 The steel drive plates are what actually transfer the power from the diff to the wheels. They’re held to the drive hub by two small Allen bolts, but the load is carried by the wheel studs. The drive plates had O-rings on the back to help seal in all the bearing grease.
16 The last and arguably most critical piece of the floater puzzle are the Hy-Tuf axles. Before being inserted, we installed the supplied snap rings on the 24-spline outer ends. These rings keep the axles from sliding inward and beating the crud out of the centersection. The outside axle is a course 24-spline, common to NASCAR and other forms of oval track racing.
17 Prior to installing the O-ringed cap, we coated the axle end with a nice layer of high-pressure lubricant. When ordering your floater system from Strange, make sure to tell them what the inner diameter is for your wheel centers.
18 Since we were in the neighborhood, we took this opportunity to swap out Bad Penny’s 3.89 gears for a set of Motive 3.50s. We also had them fully polished before bolting them to our Detroit TruTrac posi and installing it all in our aluminum Strange case. When we were running the standing mile, our Camaro was running out of Fifth gear at 172 mph. That won’t be a problem now, and we should also see an mpg benefit on the highway.
19 All done and ready to stuff back under our ’68. In the end, all of the math that Currie did paid off, and our flange-to-flange distance came in at 551⁄16 inches, which is pretty darn close to perfect.
20 Back over at Don Lee Auto, we installed the new floater rearend and bolted on the killer W4A forged nickel-plated Wilwood calipers.