With the main beam held tightly up against the floor, Doug continued on by drilling 1/2-inch holes on the rear of the driver side seat area. A total of 10 holes needed to be drilled in order to bolt the main beam in place.

As you can see here, the rear section of the main beam fits right up against the floor with no modifications, and the fuel and brake lines snap back into the stock clips.

Doug then slid the Traclink through the hole in the front section of the main beam, and proceeded to bolt up the rear of the Traclink to the bottom of the rearend.

With the rear bolted up, Doug then tightened the slip nut just enough to compress the bushings before tightening the jam nut.

Before removing the transmission crossmember, and with the Traclink in position, Doug used a silver pencil to mark the spot where the crossmember will need to be drilled out in order bolt up to the front section of the Traclink.

Here you can see how the socket goes through the 1-inch hole and enables Doug to tighten the crossmember to the torque arm at 70 pounds. Torque the remaining crossmember bolts to 40-45 pounds. That's pretty much it for the Traclink.

To remove the stock rear shocks and install the QA1s, simply lift up the flap in the carpet just above the top of the rear seat and loosen with a socket wrench.

Doug used a drill press and a 1/2-inch bit to drill a hole in the top of the crossmember. He then used a 1-inch bit on the bottom so he would be able to get a socket in far enough to tighten the Traclink to the crossmember.

Here are the QA1 double-adjustable shocks. With 24 dial positions of compression and rebound on each shock (all four), there are 576 valving combinations of adjustability. Doug prefers we start out at about five clicks from 0 just to get rolling. With plenty of adjustability to fit your needs, you can easily soften them up for highway driving, and with a few clicks of the knob, have your ride ready for some track action.